Isabelle d’Ornano and Christiane Mazery signing their book at Galignani’s

When I was a little girl, my grandfather’s cook made the best profiteroles au chocolat and they were filled with crème patissière, a heavy custard, not ice cream like you find today. The « snob au chocolat » was a mix of butter, chocolate and cream that cooled in the fridge for 24 hours, and was the highlight of our winter dinners !

Old recipes are what « 40 années chez Isabelle and Hubert d’Ornano » are all about. The book conceived by Christiane Mazery (a specialists of chic lifestyle and French interiors) was written by chef Gérard Gausset, who worked for 40 years for the founders of Sisley,  before he disappeared two years ago. It is a mix of charming souvenirs of a lifetime and personal family pictures.

At Galignani’s, the prettiest bilingual old bookstore in Paris, the manager Danielle Cillien-Sabatier discusses with customers

Born in Berry, in the center of France, Gausset started early on to help prepare baguettes for the local baker, and his first job at 16, was that of a gardner on the estate of Henri Viguier, then owner of Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville. Later, he moved on to become the chef at the d’Ornano’s, preparing meals for their shooting parties, weddings and week end dinners. Henri and Atalanta de Castellane, who were attending the book signing at Galignani’s, testified to the excellence of every meal !

Chocolate soufflé Radziwill with extra whipped cream

What is most interesting in the book, are the few old-fashion recipes : eggs as starters are always welcome and easy to make, provided your guests are on time.

Eggs Périgueux, with nice black truffles

I loved eggs Périgueux, (with truffles),  and poached eggs Toupinel in baked potatoes, the chocolate soufflé Radziwill and the « Parfait de poulet au foie gras » a cold dish perfect for summer lunches.

Parfait de poulet au foie gras

But there are also a few Polish recipes (the d’Ornanos were both born Polish), the “Sernik”, a cheese cake and the confit of red cabbage, served with the « gigot de 7 heures ». A perfect light book to practice on  for Chritsmas. (Imagine Editions, 28€)