Azzedine Alaïa’s extraordinary space in the Marais serves for fashion shows and exhibitions

There are more than 2 000 photographs in Carla Sozzani’s collection but only 198 are shown here. Here, in the amazing gallery in the Marais, that Azzedine Alaïa has devoted to exhibitions. He used to offer his fashion défilés there and he lends it to fellow couturiers, but it has primarily become an entrance free exhibition space.

Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Christian Dior in Fontainebleau, 1947

Most photographers are super famous and have worked for Italian Vogue which her sister, Franca Sozzani, has run since 1988, but we discover a few « unknown » artists who belong to her eye. She has a shop/gallery on Corso Como in Milan which is the “it” place to see.

The first pictures to strike me were a very relaxed portrait of Christian Dior in his mill in Fontainebleau by Louise Dahl-Wolfe (1947) and Frank Horvat’s picture of Coco Chanel’s shadow on her famous staircase. Alexander Liberman, the revered Vogue art director, features there with a portrait of Marlene Dietrich and so does Dominique Issermann with her picture of Carla Sozzani in 2014. Horst, Steve Hiett, Steven Meisel, Peter Lindbergh, Irving Penn, Helmut Newton… all these fabulous names, which made the multiple editions of Vogue magazine unique in the 80’s and 90’s, are well represented. the show was rated by Fabrice Hergott, director of Musée d’art moderne de la Ville de Paris and is impeccably hung.

Helmut Newton, Charlotte Rampling at the Hotel Nord Pines II, Arles 1973

At a time when I hear that the long lasting correspondent of American Vogue in Paris, Susan Train has just died in Paris, it is soothing to fall back in this wonderful atmosphere of Vogue photographers even if Henry Clarke is absent.

There are maybe too many pictures by Sarah Moon but just enough by Laszlo Moholy-Nagy. I discovered a few names like Ferdinando Scianna, Xanti Schawinsky and Lilian Bassman. Most photos are in black and white and in small formats which I much prefer. Do not miss it if you are in the area. (18 rue de la Verrerie, until February 26)