You will not find any fish at Gradelle, a new restaurant opened last fall by Stéphane and Antoni who met while working at the Plaza. The weird name comes from the butcher in « Le ventre de Paris » by Emile Zola and the decor all made to look 1870, is like a stage set. Chef Jonathan Hamel used to work with Guy Savoy…
Concentrating on excellent meat from Argentina and Scotland and chicken from Normandy, the menu is short with politically correct vegetables and organic Côtes du Rhône « Tentation de la Marquise », to which I much preferred the excellent Côtes de Bourg, Château Peychaud.
At lunch you can opt for the menu du jour at 26 €, definitely very reasonable, or choose the poulette de Racan, a tender chicken served with vegetable. I had œuf de poule in a sort of bouillon, which was light and interesting and the Argentine steak, excellent. Deserts are light if wanted or chocolaty. But what counts most in this whisky bar where even the Speyside water comes from Glenlivet ! is the coziness of the atmosphere, the gentleness of Stéphane, who is both relaxed and very professional.
Perfectly located in front of the Rex cinema and nightclub, on the Grands boulevards of Paris, it attracts both young bobos from the Sentier and old bobos from the Canal Saint Martin and Faubourg Saint Denis. Definitely a scene to watch before it becomes too trendy. (8 rue du Fbg Poissonnière)
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