Paris is so drepressing at the moment with the high waters and the constant transport strikes that it was a blessing to find a delicious soufflé for lunch at the Halles where I went to see the new canopy. Champeaux, a « Ducasse » restaurant opened by Olivier Maurey who founded Ludéric and the Mini Palais, looks like an office cafeteria from the outside but it is actually comfortable and waiters are lovely.
We were cold and neeeded comfort food. This is exactly what we found on a big screen similar to those announcing flights in airports. The “cliquetis” is quite fun to hear when it announces the caramel soufflé rather than the Paris-Milan. We had a plate of charcuterie to share and asparagus and cheese soufflés, which were promptly served and good (although I think that in restaurants, they always lack cheese).
The name Champeaux, comes from the area and Zola mentioned the opening of a restaurant with that name in « l’Argent ». Ducasse had kept a menu from there, dated December 1900 !
But don’t worry, the place designed by Cigüe architects (Yves Saint Laurent on Dover Street and Isabelle Marant around the world) is ultra modern with comfortable black leather banquettes and a lovely green patina on the walls. There is a private room for twelve and a bar lady who serves drinks in the afternoon.
There is a waiting area with sofas, which is very relaxing and the staff is extremely nice and smiling, a rarity in Paris ! Very soon, François Pinault‘s new foundation will open at Bourse du Commerce across the gardens and Saint Eustache Church will proudly preside over the area. If only the brand new Canopy painted in yellow beige did not leak!
We had a three course lunch for 45€ each and of course it is much cheaper if you only have soufflés… (Champeaux, Canopée des Halles, 01 53 45 84 50)
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