One needs a lot of curiosity and a certain courage to walk into Ellsworth, the new restaurant opened two months ago, by American Braden Perkins (his other restaurant Verjus is half a block away) on 34 Rue de Richelieu, near the Comédie Française. No name on the window, the entrance is hidden behind a nasty scaffolding and inside, the room is narrow and dark. But ! Once you have been warmly welcomed by Sarah, the charming Swedish manager, who looks about 15, you feel much better.
Dinner was excellent and friendly, we were surrounded by young attractive couples and I came out quite exhilarated. The name comes from Perkins’s grandfather, who was an inspiration to him. The food is inventive French, served in small portions, so you need to order at least three dishes, but everything was fresh and tasty. I had mushroom capellettis and little croquettes of boudin with asparagus, my friend ordered warm foie gras and beef with sugar beat chutney and garlic confit. The red wine by the glass was very good and mostly, the service was jolly and attentive. The tiny dessert list is a disappointment, but what I picked, the chocolate ice cream and coffee “espuma” were fine.
I would not go to Ellsworth for a classical French dinner but as a light meal, or brunch on Sunday, it is ideal. The decoration is non existent but the restaurant facing the Fontaine Molière is fantastically located. (appr €50)
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