Again it was one of my nephews who recommended this original and unpretentious restaurant on rue Alexandre Dumas (you know the author of Les Trois Mousquetaires!) near boulevard Voltaire in the 11 th, the heart of Paris’ trendiness. I chose to invite young architect Leonie Mason who works nearby and happened to be intimate with the owners… A nice coincidence.
We went for lunch because every night of the week was fully booked since the place is small. The politics of Fulgurances is to invite different chefs, usually second chefs of a great restaurant, to cook for 4 to 6 months in their kitchen. It is an open kitchen so we could watch Céline Pham a Franco Vietnamese cook who prepares clever fusion food.
The simple lunch menu at 24€ comprised raviolis de boeuf confit (excellent) and a sophisticated tomato salad, cod or chicken served with lovely vegetable and banana pie or apricot cake with litchi sherbet. You can read a short biography of the current chef on the menu. It was totally lovely with a glass of organic wine and mostly a delightful service by the two owners. Dinner is more elaborate and also more expensive.
On August 28, a special event with Estonian chef Peter Pihel will mark the reopening after the August holidays and then an Australian chef will move in until New Year. On the website, you can find a guide of good restaurants around France and Europe, and acquire their bilingual print magazine, “Itinéraire d’une cuisine contemporaine”.
What “Fulgurances” does best, is create events around food. The menu changes every day with the market finds and it is therefore always a surprise. Across the street is a tapas bar, “Fulgurances en face”, where you can buy your own bottle of organic wine.
Everyone in the room is under 50, the atmosphere is sweet and unpretentious. Tables are made of solid oak and a smile is on every face. A nice oasis in busy Paris!
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