Glacier National Park, a real surprise

parisdiaHappy moments4 Comments

A view from the hotel over Waterton lake

A view from the Prince of Wales hotel on Waterton lake

Driving to Glacier National Park at the border of Montana and Canada, can sound like a big adventure, especially when the Going-to-the-sun road (opened in 1932) is closed for fire alerts, but I must admit that the five hour or so drive from Missoula was only fun and beauty as far as I am concerned. After a shopping spree at Betty’s Divine, a vintage store managed by Miranda Hickox, I loved going along Flathead Lake and buying different kinds of excellent cherries under pouring rain. When we arrived at the Prince of Wales hotel in time for a gin and tonic in front of the setting sun, I felt blessed.

Prince of Wales hotel was inaugurated after the future Edward the 8 th bought a large ranch nearby.

Prince of Wales hotel was inaugurated after the future Edward the 8 th bought a large ranch nearby.

Cameron lake is an easy trail and one can fish or row on it

Cameron lake is an easy trail and one can fish or row on it

During our three day stay, we indulged in walking on Cameron Lake, with young grizzli bears in sight, had lunch at the 18 hole golf club, which is very sweet and well kept (it’s under snow 9 months of the year) and visited Sasha Montagu’s ranch a few miles away in Canada watching his dog chase the cattle.

We could have gone horseback riding in the park or canoeing on Saint Mary’s lake. But sitting in the lobby of the Prince of Wales was enough to fill our imagination. It used to be on the Great Northern Railway line and was built in 1927 by Louis Hill, with 86 bedrooms and it is seven stories high. From the railway station, all construction material was brought up on mules.

The 18 hole golf is very well maintained

The 18 hole golf is very well maintained

Cattle being chased by Sasha Montagu's dog

Cattle being chased by Sasha Montagu’s dog

You are effectively in the middle of nowhere and yet in a shabby chic hotel with full remembrances of the past. Built to look like an Austrian or Swiss chalet, it has kept a European and almost Scottish feel. All personnel is dressed in red kilts and the food is definitely canadian, not american with wonderful bison stew and poached salmon. The hotel only opens from June to September and is worth the visit.

On our way back we drove for four hours through Indian reservations and only stopped at Dupuyer Cache, to get some water. Images of Western films came to mind in this tiny village with a grocery store and no saloon…

We only crossed a couple of cars and I was thinking of the lovely book « Cowboys are my weakness » by Pam Houston and Montana writer Norman MacLean fishing short stories, « A river runs through it » during the whole ride.

Miranda Hickox, inspired by the lake, practices yoga

Miranda Hickox, inspired by the lake, practices yoga

What magical images ran in front of the windscreen and what a new imaginary life stood there. The lasting effects of this trip up North, filled my summer with joy.

 

 

 

Share this Post

4 Comments on “Glacier National Park, a real surprise”

  1. What a wonderful second chapter to the story of this trip – All your writing is full of the details that bring a story to life! Those cherries … the kilts … the always enchanting view through hours and hours of driving.
    Fantastic!

  2. I am so glad that you included the pictures of the the hotel and astonishing views. I loved discovering this unusual corner of America through you. You are our very own de Tocqueville!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *