François Rouan, Chambre III, 2013-2017 at Musée de l’Arsenal

Soissons, a desolate town located an hour and a half North East of Paris, is well known for its broken vase at the time of King Clovis’s victory over the Roman General Syagrius, in 486. This former capital of France in the 5 th century, was heavily bombarded during WWI and the beautiful cathedral stands but with very few stained glass windows. I had never been there and was intrigued when I learned that François Rouan, a wonderful painter who lives not too far, was having a retrospective of his “Tressages” braided works, in the center for contemporary art called Musée de l’Arsenal located within Abbaye St Jean des Vignes (until October 20).

Tambour à fente III (drum with a slot) 2017

The very large exhibition space is sensational and the 53 paintings selected representing works from 1970 to 2024, are a rare selection of the artist’s career. François Rouan worked at the Villa Médicis between 1971 and 1973 and became Balthus‘ assistant for a few years. He has since developed his own identity with the braiding of canvases (started in 1966) which produces a fascinating colored image. He uses wax as well as oil painting which he applies on the pieces made of long ribbons of canvas, which he cuts and braids patiently. I was interested to hear my friend Garance Aufaure, who is a  fabric specialist, compare it to “Chiné à la Branche”.

Braiding of four canvases, white, pink and green, 1970-1971 (detail), Frac Picardie

I was lucky to visit his studio once and to discover the multitude of paintings, some unfinished, some right below his bedroom so he can work on them when he wakes up in the middle of the night, others in a separate building. But to see all these works together is a unique opportunity to grasp Rouan’s huge talent. In his series “Vestige”, painted in 2023, he is inspired by both Gérard de Nerval, a XIX th century poet who was raised in Mortefontaine and Renaissance artist Primaticcio who worked at Abbaye de Chaalis: both villages are near his studio of Laversine where he has worked since 1978.

Vestige n°28, 2023

François Rouan has experimented with stained glass windows, photography and film and writes a lot. But I have to admit that his braided canvases are my favorites, so it was a complete surprise to discover so many of them together. We owe this exhibition to Pascal Neveux, director of FRAC Picardie, who inspired Christophe Brouard, curator of the Arsenal, to work with the artist on his attraction to the poet Gérard de Nerval. The painter chose to “confront his paintings to the superb space” and succeeded beyond hope. The few friends who have been so far were mesmerized so do go if you are in the area, because it has not been advertised enough.

Abbaye de Saint Leger next to the museum is superb

Soissons is a beautiful city so take the time to visit the Cathedral and the other museum, Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Saint Léger, which has some sculptures by Carrier-Belleuse, a couple of sea views by Boudin, and Dutch paintings. The desacralized church is a beauty with its cloister.

Rouan chose to confront his paintings to the superb space of l’Arsenal

On the way back we stopped in Villers Cotterest to have a casual lunch of Ficelle Picarde, a crêpe filled with mushroom purée, béchamelle and ham, and salad, and visit (again) the Cité de la Langue française where one of Rouan’s works is exhibited as a teaser until October 30. A fun exhibition of typical French songs is taking place until January 5. Approximately twenty famous French songs from Jeanne Moreau’s “J’ai la mémoire qui flanche”  to La Marseillaise can be heard as sung around the world on specific occasions. The museum itself is great and I went with a Serb friend who is now French. She enjoyed playing with the language. There is even a studio on which you can remix Céline Dion’s songs.

Musée d’Art et d’Histoire Saint Léger in Soissons is worth visiting

François Rouan “Tressages” is at l’Arsenal in Soissons until October 20.