“Quai Saint Michel avec fumée”, circa 1908-1909, courtesy Galerie de la Présidence, Philip Bernard

Ever since I discovered a painting of the Seine by Albert Marquet at a friend’s house when I was 20, I was struck every time I saw a Marquet again. He had made a lasting impression on my young eyes. Eight years ago, Musée de la Marine had an extraordinary show of this turn of the century sensitive artist, who always loved to paint water scenes, of sea and rivers alike. This year again, Musée d’art Moderne de la ville de Paris, is having a retrospective with a strange name « Peintre du temps suspendu » (painter of suspended time). It is nevertheless a beautiful exhibition with many paintings of Algiers and Naples which were unknown to me. The light of Le Havre is reminiscent of Africa and the foggy views of Algier’s harbor could (almost) be in Normandy. What a versatile painter with a love of colour !

La Marne à la Varenne Saint Hilaire, 1913-1915

Pont Saint Michel, 1910, a historical painting of the Paris inundations

The beautiful galleries of Musée d’art moderne are perfect for hanging these fairly small paintings and once I passed the first room with naked models and whores (early academic works which I did not like very much), I felt totally happy again with the Bay of Naples, a whole room of Notre Dame paintings (he used to live on quai des Grands Augustins) and “La Marne à la Varenne St Hilaire” painted in striking green.

“Vue de Notre-Dame sous la neige”, circa 1928, Roger Viollet.

The first part of this exhibit is the most interesting with greys and blues shared with Matisse, his long time friend. With chimneys and smoke, water reflected countrysides, Marquet has a very distinctive way of painting with strong lines and color contrasts. The painting of Trouville with tents on the beach and advertisement posters, is so modern that only the characters dressed in 1900 fashion can let you think you are in 1906 !

“Affiches à Trouville”, 1906, National Gallery of Art, Washington

His many boats (cargos, sail boats, lobster boats and row boats) in Honfleur, le Havre or Hamburg are all charming, and walking through this show is like taking a nice walk by the sea. It is refreshing and exhilarating. Do not miss it! (until August 21)