Noureddine Amir sculpts dresses

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Noureddine Amir with Monique Bresson who sells some of his clothes in Marrakech

Noureddine Amir with Monique Bresson, a long time friend, who sells some of his clothes in Marrakech at “33 rue Majorelle”

To celebrate ten years of exceptional exhibitions at Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, in the famous avenue Marceau house where Saint Laurent created his Haute couture, Pierre Bergé chose Noureddine Amir, a Moroccon sculptor-couturier. In the fall 2017, the space will become the Yves Saint Laurent museum.

Tubes d'organza de soie garnis de raphia et travaillés en spirales, 2009

Tubes d’organza de soie garnis de raphia et travaillés en spirales, 2009

Pierre Bergé first encountered these dress-sculptures at Insittut du Monde arabe where Jack Lang had invited him to see them. They are very inspired by ancient techniques and African ancestors magic. Noureddine Amir lives in Marrakech a few miles from Pierre Bergé‘s Majorelle gardens. It was thus extraordinary to see the shy artist, walk into the dark exhibition space and find himself at the heart of Parisianism.

Toile de jute, bordures en mousseline de soie, 2010

Toile de jute, bordures en mousseline de soie, 2010

Suzy Menkes was there of course and so was Dries van Noten and many fashion admirers who were impressed one last time by Pierre Bergé’s perspicacity. The dresses, sculpted or plated in raphia, wool, silk or rough cloth, were hanging from the ceeling and dancing in the dark. They are striking as sculptures, but most of them can be worn.

Detail of tubes d'organza de soie garnis de fils de laine teints et travaillés en spirale,2006

Detail of tubes d’organza de soie garnis de fils de laine teints et travaillés en spirale,2006

When I asked Noureddine Amir if he liked them to be worn, he hesitated… They exist as objects but they are dresses, and he creates them, all by hand,  at his own pace, with very old techniques. Slightly overwhelmed by the scenography made by Christophe Martin for these 24 dresses, which suddenly appeared as stars in the glamorous night of the foundation, the designer seemed to love them primarily as art work. But he has made costumes for seven of Iranian artist Shirin Neshat’s films.

Soie, tubes de mousseline de soie travaillés en spirales, 2006

Soie, tubes de mousse line de soie travaillés en spirales, 2006 and in the back, tubes de mousse line de soie torsadés, 2010

It was great fun to bump (for lack of light) into guests and listen to the conversations. Noureddine has sold dresses to Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran and to very simple customers. He has to like the person to accept the order.

Rubans de soie torsadés et cousus sur une feutrine, 2011

Rubans de soie torsadés et cousus sur use feutrine, 2011 worn on metal models made by the artist

Each dress is of course unique.
His old friend Monique Bresson sells some of his casual fashion in her delightful design shop, « 33 rue Majorelle » across the street from the Saint Laurent house in Marrakech.

Fils de sabra brodés sur une feutrine, 2012

Fils de sabra brodés sur une feutrine, 2012

The circle is now closed. Marrakech-Paris-Marrackech. And his talent is at last officially recognized in Paris. ( entrance is free)

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