To be Parisian in Lausanne

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The Musée de l’Elysée, a small house with a big aura.

The Musée de l’Elysée in Lausanne is turning thirty, and so has its brand new director, Tatyana Franck, who took over last week  from Sam Stourdzé, now the director of the Rencontres Internationales de photographie d’Arles.

Famous around the world for its touring photo exhibitions, the Musée de L’Elysée is located in a beautiful 18 th century house overlooking Lake Léman. It is a must visit, as much as the Fondation de l’Hermitage on top of the hill.

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From Denmark with love

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A salmon festival at Flora Danica

A salmon festival at Flora Danica

One used to go to Caviar Kaspia or Maison du Caviar on the Champs Elysées for a late supper after a play or a concert. But caviar being what it is, no more.  I recently found a similar elegant atmosphere at Maison du Danemark at the top of the Champs Elysées, while having a light dinner at their brasserie Flora Danica.

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Philippe Entremont, intimate

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The music room at Musée Jacquemart-André

What a privilege to go on a Sunday night to Musée Jacquemart André and listen to one of the greatest French pianists, Philippe Entremont, who played Mozart and Schubert. The private museum, one of the most visited in Paris thanks to Culturespace which manages it, is the former Hôtel particulier of sculptor Nélie Jacquemart and her rich husband Edouard André. It is magnificently furnished and decorated in 18 th century style and the paintings on the wall are world class. So it made me smile when I heard an elegant old lady say « on se sent chez soi ici » (one feels at home here) a little snobbish right ?…

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An actress turned (excellent) writer

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Anne Wiazemsky seems to have always been discovered and chosen by fabulous men. First the film director, Robert Bresson cast her in « Au Hasard Balthazar ». Then Jean Luc Godard, soon to be her husband, shot « La Chinoise » for her. And Pasolini asked her to play in  “Theorem”. And then followed at least seven other movies while she was in her early twenties.

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Joan of Arc as “Jeanne au bûcher”

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I was looking forward to this evening at the new Philharmonie de Paris for a long time. Theatre and opera director, Côme de Bellescize, 34, whom I have been following for four years now, was directing Arthur Honegger’s « Jeanne au Bûcher » which he created for Seiji Ozawa in Japan in 2013. The libretto written by Paul Claudel is an ode to the 19 year old martyr, burnt by the English in May 1431, in Rouen.

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Jeanne Lanvin’s past glitter

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When I walked into the new exhibition of Lanvin dresses at Palais Galliera this morning, Anna Wintour was being taken around by Alber Elbaz, the current Lanvin designer and co- curator of the show, with Olivier Saillard, who runs the Museum of Fashion. It was clever of course to open this retrospective of 90 dresses by the Grande dame de la mode of the 1920’s on the first day of fashion week.
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The Clown Bar

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You better book at Le Clown bar, because, even for lunch, the ten tables are constantly full. With my elegant girlfriend straight out of the posh seventh arrondissement, we were slightly looked down at as the « Bourgeoises trying to have fun with younger people ». And the first waitress we had, did not hide her displeasure at taking our order. Or rather she made a point not to take our order for a good fifteen minutes. But we had enough gossips to exchange, to not bother too much.

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Gare à Lazare

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Gare Saint Lazare is traditionally the station in Paris that leads to Normandy and Marcel Proust took the train there to Cabourg. Nowadays, it leads to Giverny for a day at Monet’s gardens or to St Germain, to see the wonderful Maurice Denis museum. But you can also stay in Paris and enjoy the ambiance at Lazare, the one year old brasserie, which I love going to with a girlfriend after a good movie near the opera.
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