To celebrate ten years of exceptional exhibitions at Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, in the famous avenue Marceau house where Saint Laurent created his Haute couture, Pierre Bergé chose Noureddine Amir, a Moroccon sculptor-couturier. In the fall 2017, the space will become the Yves Saint Laurent museum.
Pierre Bergé first encountered these dress-sculptures at Insittut du Monde arabe where Jack Lang had invited him to see them. They are very inspired by ancient techniques and African ancestors magic. Noureddine Amir lives in Marrakech a few miles from Pierre Bergé‘s Majorelle gardens. It was thus extraordinary to see the shy artist, walk into the dark exhibition space and find himself at the heart of Parisianism.
Suzy Menkes was there of course and so was Dries van Noten and many fashion admirers who were impressed one last time by Pierre Bergé’s perspicacity. The dresses, sculpted or plated in raphia, wool, silk or rough cloth, were hanging from the ceeling and dancing in the dark. They are striking as sculptures, but most of them can be worn.
When I asked Noureddine Amir if he liked them to be worn, he hesitated… They exist as objects but they are dresses, and he creates them, all by hand, at his own pace, with very old techniques. Slightly overwhelmed by the scenography made by Christophe Martin for these 24 dresses, which suddenly appeared as stars in the glamorous night of the foundation, the designer seemed to love them primarily as art work. But he has made costumes for seven of Iranian artist Shirin Neshat’s films.
It was great fun to bump (for lack of light) into guests and listen to the conversations. Noureddine has sold dresses to Empress Farah Pahlavi of Iran and to very simple customers. He has to like the person to accept the order.
Each dress is of course unique.
His old friend Monique Bresson sells some of his casual fashion in her delightful design shop, « 33 rue Majorelle » across the street from the Saint Laurent house in Marrakech.
The circle is now closed. Marrakech-Paris-Marrackech. And his talent is at last officially recognized in Paris. ( entrance is free)
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