Les Affranchis is a typical trendy restaurant of la Nouvelle Athènes, on the delightful place Gustave Toudouze, with large trees, catered for the successful young couples who do not cook and love creative dishes served as a work of art. The chef, Enrico Bertazzo, comes from Padova near Venice, one of the waiters is from Sardinia near Olbia and the other is a Hungarian Serb from Novisad…They were all totally charming and patient with my hosts, an inquisitive American art collector and our mutual friend, a famous curator. Both avid food lovers. The challenge was to find a nice place on a Sunday night in the 9 th arrondissement. And the evening was a triumph. Not cheap but totally worth it.
The menu at 75€ includes a carrousel of elaborate hors d ‘oeuvre, with a fabulous crudo d’espadon (swordfish), a boiled egg with watercress, gnocchis with garlic and a frog leg and the chef d’oeuvre, a tiny Tatin of onion with a parmigiano cream. Of course, after this starter and even though the portions are small, I felt like moving on to dessert… But we had all ordered Ris de veau (sweetbreads) and it came, in small portion again thank God, and absolutely delicious. We could have ordered half a lobster or yellow place (lieu jaune) or a poularde from Culoiseau with morilles and asparagus…
By the time dessert came I had given up and could only eat a cannelé, beautifully cooked and tasty. But my happy friends chose a zabalone and could have had poached pears or chocolate… more coated almonds came after with a grappa from Sardinia and more chatting with the chef. All in all, a perfect Sunday evening with fabulous food and witty company. Thank you!
Two menus at 75€ and 90€. Wines from Italy and elsewhere. The restaurant Les Affranchis applies the rule of making their staff work four days a week! so it is closed Tuesdays to Thursdays. 5 rue Henry Monnier, 9 th.
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