Chapan, 19 th century, Bukhara state museum-reserve photo Laziz Hamani

Jack Lang, the President of IMA, was full off praise for Yaffa Assouline who initiated and curated the show on silk “Suzanis” “Coronation Chapans” “ikats” and other exceptional XIX th century embroidered costumes from the court of Uzbekistan lent for the first time by the Culture Development Foundation of the Republic in Tashkent. Surrounded by Kazakhstan to the North, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan, the country became independent from the former USSR in 1991. Yaffa’s passion for this country led her to travel there often, to Samarkand, Bukhara and Shiva, and trace treasures from the different museums. The beauty of the embroideries on each piece presented here is such, that you spend a wonderful moment amid this  exotic splendor. At the Louvre a small exhibition of precious and very old statues is organized in parallel. Both shows were inaugurated by the Uzbek President with Emmanuel Macron on Tuesday, October 21.

Chapan of Emir Mohammad Alim Khan in “darkham” style, Bukhara XIX th century, Bukhara state museum-reserve (detail) He reigned from 1911 to 1920

This show describes well, through its traditional costumes, the power of the Silk Road, where people from the steppes, India, Persia, China came together.  The Zoroastrian and Muslim practices coexisted. Cotton and silk were produced in oases, wool came from the mountains and the steppes for the carpets. All pieces are an endless inspiration for designers, with so many motifs being embroidered in gold and silver on multiple colored fabrics. The stitches are so sophisticated that you can spend hours just studying them.

Nourata, Suzani, beginning of the XIX th century, Samarkand state museum-reserve (detail)

The most important item in men’s costumes was the kaftan known as the chapan or khalat. A long coat worn over several layers of  clothing. At the emir’s court, the finest chapans were made on a base of silk velvet and decorated with gold embroidery. In 1860-1885, the emir Muzaffar Ed-Din created a gold embroidery workshop in the Ark citadel of Bukhara and these fabrics have remained brilliant and in perfect condition and represent through their designs the level of importance at court. Ambassadors and high ranking members of the military were given these clothes as a diplomatic gift. By the end of the 19 th century, there are thirty two embroider’s guilds and the craftsmen were highly regarded since their work was seen a sa blessing from God.

Dmitriev, Portrait of Mirzo Abduvohid Burkhonzoda, 1912, Bukhara State Museum-Reserve, photo Andrey Arakelyan

There are a number of carpets in wool, cotton and silk threads which decorated the sumptuous interiors. Some were used as wall decoration and were included in the bride’s dowry. Each town whether Samarkand, Bukhara or other regions had their specific themes, celestial or gardens. Jewelry is also present in the exhibition as well as precious equestrian finery such as turquoise and enamel harness and painted saddles.

The show is beautifully lit and set at IMA

Make sure to go and see this exhibition “On the Roads to Samarkand” which is open at IMA until June 4. It is perfect for Christmas with its lavish decors. At the Louvre until March 6, , “Splendors of Uzbekh oases” is more ancient with fine statues from the 7 th century and decorated bowls form the 10 th century. I loved a seated Chinese camel from the Wei dynasty in the 6 th century, a Prince wearing an armor from the 1 st century and a Bodhisattva from the 2 nd century.

Bust of Weshparkar (Mahadeva) Divinity, Uzbekistan, Kuva,(Fergana), 7 th century, Tashkent, National Museum of Arts in Uzbekistan