Heroisches Sinnbild III, 1970-71, a self portrait wearing his father’s army boots
I ran into a friend who had seen the exhibition at the pre-pre-opening and told me « it’s very dark, very pessimistic »… Well I am glad I did not listen to her. The Anselm Kiefer retrospective at Centre Pompidou is one of the most powerful, luminous and exciting event that happened this year in Paris. And you have until April 18 th to run and see it.
Royal tombs at St Denis, © Photo Pascal Lemaître
The cathedral of Saint Denis is mostly a house for French kings to rest in peace. Few people think of visiting this first example of gothic art built on the spot where King Dagobert was buried in 639, even though it is only a twenty minute metro ride from the Madeleine. In June, its sacred music festival is a must. But if you are not in Paris or just feeling lazy, there is now a definitive 500 pages book on the basilica. And the 600 pictures of the church, restored in 2015, will give you a much better idea of its originality. Less far than driving to Chartres and historically fascinating.
Catherine de Medicis, © Photo Pascal Lemaître
Inside the new Saint Honoré shop, photo Laurent Parrault
When the Baccarat flagship store was located, Place de la Madeleine, my house guests used to bring me presents from the shop and it was very nice… But, yet another luxury hotel, is being built on the site and Starwood capital, who owns the crystal company, had to close the store.
Only to reopen five minutes away, in an even better location, across the street from the Bristol, the now famous « Midnight in Paris » hang out. So I rushed on opening day to check it out for you…Read More
Hand painted mugs hand painted with foxes or hare at 50€ are irresistible
Colorful boots and shooting chairs
Last minute shopping for Christmas, can be done at Artumès, on Faubroug Saint Honoré, where tweeds, cachemire scarves and cute mugs mix in a very luxurious shop. Opened by the Drach, Father and sons, it has become the classical men’s store for soft Portugese woolen jackets, Scottish socks, hand painted china with shooting themes and fun cocktail parties all year round. A new range of bags and boots can be THE present that you have never seen elsewhere for the friend who has everything!!!Read More
Hommage à Varèse, 1964, photo Dennis Bouchard
Everytime I go to Fondation Pierre Gianadda in Martigny (Switzerland), I undergo the same choc. The very powerful museum opened by Léonard Gianadda 37 years ago, appears against the mountains in its brutal concrete form. And once inside, I am mesmerized by the art seen from the balcony, in this huge private exhibition space. This time was no exception. After a five hour train trip from Paris, we arrived and literally dove into the Zao Wou-Ki show, taken around at high speed, by curator Daniel Marchesseau, who not only knew the artist very well, but has also been a faithful curator here, for more than twenty years.
Read More
A tropical forest hangs from the balcony where you can have tapas and small meals in front of early nude pictures of Madonna, by Martin H.M. Schreiber
L’Alcazar used to be a naughty cabaret where Jean-Marie Rivière created humorous and chic transvestite shows in 1968 until his death in 1996. I remember going there when I was 17, and loving the transgression and quality of the singers. In 1998, Sir Terence Conran, then at the hight of his Habitat and Conran fame, transformed the spot into a posh black and white and fairly cold brasserie. This week, with the same team as in the 90’s, manager Michel Besmond and Fabrice Gilberdy, Alcazar reopens with a completely different decor, created by Laura Gonzalez, the charming it-architect of the time.
Le Corbusier’s Couvent de La Tourette was built for Dominicans in 1960
After his sad adventures in Versailles this fall, Anish Kapoor needed some respite. And this is what Couvent de La Tourette in Burgundy, is offering him until January 4th. The Dominican convent, built by Le Corbusier (who died 50 years ago) is a fascinating stage for Kapoor’s sculptures and paintings. Built at the same time as the architect’s other project of Chandigarth, it is made of concrete, with linear windows designed by music composer Xenakis. It lies thirty minutes from Lyon in a beautiful countryside and is home to twelve monks from the Dominican order founded 900 years ago.
Traditionally, truffles are kept in a glass container with eggs. And when you cook your eggs, the flavor is already within.
December is in France the right month to find black truffles. If you have never tasted them, they are very different from white Italian truffles and are cooked with risotto, scrambled eggs, or eaten on toasted country bred with melted butter and salt. They are a delicacy and can be found wild in Lubéron and Dordogne or grown, as is the case with Baron de la Truffe’s production in Touraine. Founded in 2011, the company is based on 60 acres which were planted in 1996 with Tuber Melanosporum.Read More